Papandayan Edelweiss Garden

Dead Forest

This Saturday, very early morning we were  already in Guntur bus terminal, Garut, West Java. We have not arrived at Papandayan yet, but trembled with coldness already. The cold wind did not seem to respect the jacket I was wearing. After breakfast too early and passengers slept in the sate hut, we go to T Intersection at Cisurupan district which have  "Gunung Papandayan" name plank with Angkot (such a public transportation). Then our journey to Papandayan Base Camp using vegetable freight pickups.

Along the way to base camp, there  are farmers houses that are interspersed with squash, banana tree and again which is always mocking me, the waving leaves, oloracea brassica.

That morning Base Camp was still quiet, all souvenir shops were closed, there only 1 person on duty at tourist information centre. Locals said that Papandayan were derived from Sunda language Panday meaning iron smith. It is said according folklore, in this mountain often sounded like the clinking of metal being forged by iron smith, so the locals gave Papandayan for its name.

Funny, many farmers go to the area of the mountain ridge with a motorcycles -whereas  the track is difficult instead for pedestrian-with two or three sacks of potatoes.

Kawah Mas

Papandayan somewhat strange, with a high peak 2622 meter above sea level, have  no crater at the peak like the other common mountain, but on its ridge. The 2002 eruption increases the crater area, dominated by yellow sulfur blowing. Distinctive smell of sulfur is very strong sting here, you should wear a mask. Perhaps because of yellow sulfur its called Kawah Mas (Golden Crater). Because of eye pain, soon we depart from here, and continue hiking to Pondok Salada.

interrupted track to Pondok Salada

Track to Pondok Salada was interrupted by landslide, so we should go down to reach the other side of track for safety reason.

Pondok Salada

Pondok Salada filled with savanna grasses and edelweiss. Although tiny, the edelweiss is very beautiful. Pass trough small river drained down by farmers as source of water, we go to the lush forest.

Hutan Mati 

After Pondok Salada, go into Hutan Mati (Dead Forest). Hutan Mati is a rest of a forest devastated by pyroclastic surges during the 2002 eruption. Remaining tree trunks charred in a row, spooky just like outer space movie setting. White chalk soil, overgrown with charred burnt trunks, fortunately we pass this area during the day, if we do in night probably complicated to determine right track.

Tegal Alun

After 3 hours and 50 minutes hike from base camp, we have arrived at Tegal Alun. Tegal Alun, vast plains filled with savanna grasses and Javanese edelweiss (anaphalis javanicus), loose soil structure, such a walking on the mat. Tents set up, while waiting for afternoon, walk around enjoy abundant Javanese edelweiss. Tegal Alun is the path trajectory of Phanter and wild boar. Because of loose structure, footprint of phanter (phantera pardus melas) clearly visible at sideline of the grass, also footprint of the 'shaggy hair' wild boar (sus scorfa).

Morning at Tegal Alun

Night at Tegal Alun is very cold, colder than Cikuray Mountain. Actually the sky was bright, billions of stars scattered befriended a full moon up there. But the air is very cold, still trembled although we had a campfire and wore sarong.

How to get there: 
1. From Jakarta by bus (Kampung Rambutan terminal to Guntur Terminal, Garut) 
2. Angkot (Domestic transportation) to Cisurupan district (tell the driver to drop you at T intersection which have Name plank "Gunung Papandayan")
3. Pickups (vegetable carries) to base camp or Ojek (local transporation with motorcycle)

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